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PRESS CLIPS
"… L.A.’S BEST RESTAURANTS…" -
by Jonathan Gold for Los Angeles Times
"…
once you’ve passed through the carved wooden doorway, the staff
exudes friendliness and charm. (The Little Door also boasts more
age diversity than other hip spots-many diners are actually over
30.) This is hands down the city’s most romantic restaurant,
a secret hideaway…"
- by Colleen Dunn Bates for BON
APPÉTIT
"
RESTAURANTS – the surreal thing.
The Little Door’s cuisine—like its clientele—is
beautiful…
Of the many, many surreal restaurants in town, perhaps the most popular
is the Little Door, a heaving tropical fantasy…The food is
often pretty arranged here, a glossy magazine layout on a plate.
Seared tuna, almost raw, is smooth and cool under a paste of crushed
green olives. Honeyed duck breast—rare but crisp-skinned, glazed
with honey and garnished with stewed figs and couscous—tastes
like a house specialty and may be the best dish the Little Door serves.
- by Jonathan Gold for LOS ANGELES TIMES
" MEDITERRANEAN MOOD
Inside, the restaurants feel like a rambling,
down-at-the-heels country house. Several rooms serve as dining space,
and French doors open
onto the courtyard. The windowsills are painted the same bright blue
of doors and shutters all over Province. There’s a piano with
a guitar resting on top of it in one room. In the back room is a
waist-high hearth, where a fire burns under a tiled hood. The long
wood tables could come from an old farmhouse. Candles in rustic iron
sconces and French canning jars burn everywhere, bathing the rooms
in warm light.
We sit in the rear dining room, the one with the fireplace, where
we can glimpse the kitchen through the opening framed by café curtains.
As we sip our wine (the entire list is available by the glass, from
a St. Tropez rosé at $5 to a premier cru Chablis at $20),
we find ourselves caught up in the recorded music: haunting North
African ballads and the great Mali singer Salif Keita mixed with
world beat and dance tunes. The menu -a dozen appetizers and about
the same number of main courses-changes almost daily, depending on
what the chef finds at the farmers’ market. To start, grilled
vegetable terrine is a colorful layering of grilled eggplant, sweet
red peppers and zucchini that has set long enough
for the flavors to meld beautifully. It’s served with a dab
of tapenade." –
by S. Irene Virbila for LOS ANGELES
TIMES MAGAZINE
"… we let our gracious and knowledgeable waiter Eric decide for us.
He recommended we start with the Moroccan salad, an ensemble of four
vegetable salads each highlighted by its own interesting and complex
flavors, a blend of fish and potato that were so light, and fluffy
they melted in the mouth.
For entrees he suggested the lamb shank with apricot sauce and the
filet with Roquefort. The apricot sauce was a wonderful complement
to the lamb, giving it a subtle, sweet flavor. Of course if you love
a medium-rare filet, and you love Roquefort, this is a delectable
combination."
- LARCHMONT CHRONICLE
" With Dusky chandeliers suspended over heavy
wooden table that are often covered with the finest assortment of
French cheeses and aged
wines, The Little Door feels like old provincial Europe. The charming
warmth of The Little Door is reflected in entrees that are both pastoral
and elegantly presented by the resident chef, who selects organic
ingredients daily from the local Farmer’s market. The Menu
is printed afresh every evening in accordance with his findings,
such as the leeks used in the braised leek, thyme and Gruyere cheese
tart, or the cilantro and mint that flavors the charmoula-grilled
ahi tuna. Desserts are listed on chalkboard, and they too change
according to what’s in season. The fruit tarts are delicious
when accompanied by the Moroccan mint tea."
- by Donna Quesada
for CIRCLE
WHERE
IT ALL BEGIN before THE LITTLE DOOR, there was BO KAOS, PO-NA-NA
SOUK, and FLAMING COLOSSUS
"
COLOSSAL SOUK-CESS. ‘We’re creative catalysts’, explain
nightclub hosts Frederic and Nicolas Meschin. ‘We try to anticipate
the future, and provide all the elements—the mystique—and
then it’s up to our guests to create magic.’ The brother’s
first experience in sociocultural ambience, after arriving from France
in early eighty, was the Paris Mexico Café. Opening Flaming
Colossus in 1987 with partner Sue Choi, they completely transformed
their downtown location. A draconian door policy and a healthy disdain
for press and presumed celebrities was combined with eclectic décor,
art displays, casual dining, and entertainment ranging from fire eaters
to gypsy troubadours—putting them at the forefront of a nightlife
scene presumed dead by even most optimistic observers. PO-NA-NA SOUK,
their current enterprise in Hollywood, seem likely to surpass FLAMING
COLOSSUS, with a sultry Moroccan-style interior and cuisine, and a
series of diversions from exotic performances and art to a pool table
and oyster bar. The brothers; philosophy is to challenge the establishment:
their endeavors are a reaction against a system that ‘wants to
stifle aggressive exchanges of ideas and social
groups—because
it’s easier to control couch potatoes." –
by Henry
Eshelman for DETAIL MAGAZINE
"
KING OF CLUBS. In L.A.’s new nighttime bohemia, FLAMING
COLOSSUS is King of the Jungle. The club’s African music and primitive
spirit were last year’s Parisian rage, and while trends from
across the Atlantic usually touch down in New York first, French brothers
Frederic and Nicolas Meschin partnered with Sue Choi catapulted this
one straight into downtown Los Angeles. Inside, their club is like
a dark Continent Nell’s—a Congo cabaret throbbing with
overgrown plant life, thumping dancers, even a fire-eater.
–by
Angela Janklow for VANITY FAIR MAGAZINE
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